From 9 to 13 November 2022, FINE ARTS PARIS & LA BIENNALE brought together 86 fair at the Carrousel du Louvre. This unique cultural meeting in Paris combines the FINE ARTS Fair, which has was for 5 times, and La BIENNALE, born in 1956. Three contemporary jewellers, Walid Akkad, Feng J and Frédérique Matteï displayed their creations. And this among gallery possessors, antique dealers and other art dealers specializing in jewellery, Bernard Bouisset, Orpheo Genève, Martin du Daffoy and Larengregor, who offered old and quaint pieces.
When shapes cut through the light
With his sculptural jewellery with soft shapes that feel to wind endlessly, Walid Akkad unveils an original tale of 21 red gold rings. Placed vertically on their ring with a flat reverse, the rings elicit an beast( crocodile, rabbit, owl, steed, hedgehog). But formerly worn, they're no further than an abstraction. “ My rings have a double reading, ” says Walid Akkad. The work on the essence – asemi-bright sandblasting which is his own and which he carries out with “ DIY ” tools – is expressed in all his jewellery. The voluptuous forms are unleashed to perpetuity in this tale of the plastic jeweller as in his other collections. The Volutes creations are a nonstop line of gold drawn as if the hand hadn't lifted the pencil. Walid Akkad also likes to throw a little chaos into this harmony. therefore, on the Spire choker, the links all have the same shape but they're linked in such a way as to produce an asymmetrical effect. As for the Eight ring, set with an extraordinary blue-green tourmaline, it forms the figure whose line noway ends. The Eight ring, set with an extraordinary garnet, forms the number whose line noway ends. Endless fluidity.
Jewellery from the ends of the earth
Frédérique Matteï has been travelling the world for times, collecting then and there all feathers of ethnical rudiments, bejeweled tableware, bejeweled citation or glass globules, gemstone demitasse pendants, engraved or carved monuments, wax balls covered with gold splint, etc. From this treasure casket, she draws to make her pieces. “ The rudiments of my jewellery come from all countries and all ages. I mix them up and it seems to me that they make sense at that moment. As on this choker where Thai carnelian cougars dialogue with plums, either ancient Rajastan tableware gilt or more recent bones. On this other choker, Bohemian bloated glass rings from the 1950s are mounted with Tibetan globules in gilt citation and Himalayan gemstone demitasse. “ I've always wanted to produce a link between societies and my jewellery expresses this link. That says it all for this developer, whose jewels, beyond the fantastic , display a crazy originality in the heart of the show.
Poetry as a heritage
Frédérique Matteï would nearly make the Chinese developer Feng J look like a classic Despite this, the ultimate is a baffling illustration of Chinese jewellers with their egregious taste for poetry and unusual gems. Unlike theultra-coloured gems of Wallace Chan, Anna Hu or Cindy Chao, Feng J chooses light tones, nearly transparent, for its ethereal compositions. The gems feel to be suspended thanks to the floating setting she has imagined. An nearly unnoticeable gold line surrounds the gravestone’s cirque and holds it in place with bitsy claws, giving an submarine and light aspect to sublime butterflies, a Gengko flower brooch or a laurel. Chinese jewellery is frequently inspired by nature and puck tales( similar as that of Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai, who witness an insolvable and woeful love and are converted into two butterflies). Feng J remains faithful to this.
The jewellery of the developer, who's only 36 times old, is formerly being snapped up at transaction. After two exceptional pieces vended for$2.6 million and$1.7 million independently at Philipps, her Fountain on Fire ring was lately vended for further than€1.6 million at Sotheby’s HK.
The great autographs
Echoing these contemporary contrivers, numerous aged pieces by Cartier, Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin, Fred, Chaumet and David Webb were on display at Bernard Bouisset, Martin du Daffoy, Larengregor and Orpheo. While Bernard Bouisset commended that he'd fallen in love with a diamond ring by Suzanne Belperron( certified by Olivier Baroin, the brand’s expert) or a Fred cuff with gemstones of chrysoprase and delicately pink coral, his space was full of treasures strictly classified by period, from the art deco period, frequently unsigned – the jewels weren't always inked, their unique style was their seal – to the 1970s. The atmosphere is different at Martin du Daffoy’s, who wanted to punctuate creations, inked or not, similar as this astonishing 1940s laurel in platinum and diamonds, with veritably fine workmanship but of unknown origin, to which he has added festoons of dressed plums. It sits alongside a pleasurable Van Cleef & Arpels 3- gold set, entirely hand- chased. “ I was looking for tasteful, well- drafted pieces for collectors who like French fineness, when brands weren't so important, ” he says. A breastplate catches the eye, made by the Lebanese jeweller Yessayan in the 1970s. Soft as a cloth thanks to hundreds of hours of factory work, it represents a dove made of sapphires and diamonds taking flight. “ This dove is an fable of peace, which sounded to me to be an intriguing choice at the time in which we live, ” adds Martin du Daffoy.
FINE ARTS & LA BIENNALE will have attracted 17,000 callers in November 2022. The coming edition will take place from 21 to 26 November 2023 at the Grand Palais Ephémère in Paris. Constrained again this time by a limited face area at the Carrousel, the Fair has nonetheless formerly earned its place among the major art expositions. It's anticipated to grow in strength when it returns to the repaired Grand Palais, which may allow it to open up further to the transnational request.